Our Family Road Trip Across the Balkans: A Journey from Tirana to the Mountains

It all started with a simple idea: Let’s skip the tour buses, avoid the rigid itineraries, and explore the Balkans at our own pace. My wife, our two kids (ages 7 and 10), and I had always dreamed of a European adventure that wasn’t just about ticking off landmarks, but about feeling the rhythm of the land—winding mountain roads, hidden villages, lakeside towns, and spontaneous stops at roadside bakeries.

So, when we decided to spend two weeks exploring Albania and parts of Montenegro, we knew one thing for sure: we needed a car.

And not just any car—we needed freedom, flexibility, and reliability. That’s how I ended up booking our car rental for a week before our flight through Final Rentals. Honestly, I’d never heard of them before, but after reading dozens of reviews and comparing prices across several platforms, they offered the best value, clearest terms, and a surprisingly wide selection of vehicles suited for mountain terrain.

Little did I know then that this decision would shape the entire success of our trip.

Why We Chose a Rental Car to Explore the Balkans Over Tours or Public Transport

We’re a family of four, and after years of traveling, we’ve learned a few things:

Kids get tired. Fast.
Schedules don’t always match nap times.
Lugging suitcases on buses or trains with two kids is a nightmare.
The best moments happen off the beaten path.

Public transport in the Balkans? It exists, but it’s limited, especially in rural areas. Buses are infrequent, routes are often indirect, and comfort levels vary. For a family with kids, that meant long waits, missed connections, and zero spontaneity. Tours? Too rigid. We wanted to stop at that tiny beach we saw from the road, hike that trail with the waterfall, or linger in a village square over homemade raki.

We went with the ultimate tool for freedom, and we picked up a rental car at Tirana International Airport (TIA)—Nënë Tereza, just 17 km from downtown Tirana.

Booking the Right Car: What Worked for Us

Before booking, I asked myself: What kind of roads are we driving on?

I knew we’d be heading into the Albanian Alps, the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna), and along Lake Skadar in Montenegro. That meant narrow, winding, sometimes unpaved roads. Rain, mud, and even snow at higher altitudes were possible, especially in early spring.

I ruled out compact city cars immediately. We needed a vehicle with good ground clearance, 4-wheel drive capability, and sufficient space for luggage and car seats.

Final Rentals offered several options, but we went with a Suzuki Vitara 4×4—a compact SUV that’s fuel-efficient, easy to drive, and surprisingly capable off-road. It had an automatic transmission (a must for my wife, who isn’t used to manual), rear parking sensors, and plenty of trunk space for our stroller, backpacks, and picnic gear.

Cost? $38 per day, including full insurance, unlimited mileage, and child seat compatibility. For a 12-day rental, that came to $456—cheaper than two guided tours combined. And yes, we added a second driver (my wife) at no extra cost.

Tip: Always book child seats in advance. We brought our own booster seats, but Final Rentals offered them for $5/day if needed.

Picking Up the Car at Tirana Airport: Smooth and Stress-Free

We landed at 3 PM after a delayed flight from Rome. I was worried—would the car be ready? Would there be hidden fees? Language issues?

None of that happened.

The rental desk was right in the arrivals hall, clearly marked. The agent, a friendly woman named Elona, had our reservation ready. She walked us through the contract (in English), showed us the car, and did a quick walk-around to document existing scratches.

The Suzuki was clean, fueled, and had working AC—important because Tirana was already hitting 28°C.

She gave us a physical map (yes, in 2024!), a local SIM card suggestion, and even recommended a nearby gas station. Total time at the counter: 12 minutes.

We were on the road within 20.

Planning Our Balkans Road Trip: Tirana to Theth, Then On to Montenegro

We had 12 days. Our plan:

Tirana (2 nights) – Get our bearings
Shkodër & Lake Skadar (2 nights) – Nature and history
Theth (3 nights) – Mountain village immersion
Kotor, Montenegro (3 nights) – Coastal charm
Back to Tirana via Elbasan (2 nights) – Cultural detour

Total driving distance: Approx. 720 km, average daily drive: 60–90 km, with one long leg of 180 km.

Day 1–2: Tirana – A City of Contrasts (and Surprising Charm)

We landed in Tirana under a bright spring sun, the kind that makes jet lag feel worth it. The temperature was a perfect 22°C (72°F)—warm enough for t-shirts but not too hot for our kids (ages 7 and 10) to explore. After picking up our rental car from the airport (more on that later), we drove the 17 km to our guesthouse in Blloku, Tirana’s trendiest neighborhood, in just 25 minutes.

We stayed at “Home in Tirana”, a cozy, family-run guesthouse with a small garden and a play corner for kids. It cost us $65 per night, including breakfast—fresh local cheese, honey, and warm burek. The location was ideal: just a 5-minute walk from cafés, playgrounds, and shaded parks.

Tirana is loud, colorful, and full of life. Buildings are painted in rainbow hues, graffiti art covers walls, and people spill out onto sidewalks with espressos in hand. For families, it’s surprisingly welcoming.

Our first full day was packed:

The Pyramid of Tirana: Once a museum for communist dictator Enver Hoxha, now a youth center with climbing walls and skate ramps. Our kids loved running up the grassy slopes and peeking into the graffiti-covered tunnels. Entry: Free.
Grand Park of Tirana: A massive green lung in the city center. We rented bikes ($5 for 2 hours) and pedaled past the Tirana Artificial Lake, where ducks and swans glided across the water. The kids fed them breadcrumbs and spotted a few turtles sunbathing on rocks.
Dajti Mountain Cable Car: Just 10 km east of the city, this ride takes you from 120m to 1,613m in under 15 minutes. The panoramic view of Tirana sprawled below was breathtaking.

We hiked a short trail to Dajti’s Peak, had lunch at the mountain restaurant (try the qofte—Albanian meatballs), and watched paragliders soar above the clouds.

Driving in Tirana? Let’s be honest: it’s chaotic. Locals drive fast, lanes are suggestions, and parking is a puzzle. But having a car gave us freedom and flexibility. We avoided rush hour (7–9 AM and 5–7 PM), used park-and-ride spots near the city center, and walked the rest of the way.

Weather: Daytime highs 22–25°C, nights 14°C
Distance covered: 35 km over two days
Must-try meal: Tavë Kosi (baked lamb with yogurt and egg) at Bakllavasja near Skanderbeg Square

Family highlight: Riding the cable car and spotting eagles circling above Dajti

Tip: Download the “Waze” app—it reroutes you around traffic jams in real time.

Day 3–4: Shkodër & Lake Skadar – Nature’s Playground (and Birdwatcher’s Paradise)

The drive from Tirana to Shkodër was our first real taste of the Albanian countryside: 115 km, 2 hours, mostly on well-paved two-lane roads. The landscape shifted from urban sprawl to rolling hills dotted with olive groves and wild poppies.

We stayed at “Vila Marlena”, a lakeside villa just outside Shkodër with a private dock and a small playground. At $70/night, it was one of our best-value stays. The kids could safely run around, and we woke up to the sound of lapping water and birdsong.

Shkodër is a quiet city with deep Ottoman roots. Cobblestone streets, old stone bridges, and the Rozafa Castle looming over the town make it feel like a storybook.

We spent Day 3 exploring:

Rozafa Castle: Perched on a limestone hill, this fortress has legends of a woman being walled in for the tower to stand. Our kids were fascinated (and slightly spooked). The climb is steep, but the 360° view of Lake Shkodër and the Albanian Alps is worth it. Entry: $3 3/adult, kids free.
Shkodër Old Bazaar: A quiet, authentic market with handmade crafts, honey, and raki (fruit brandy). We bought wooden spoons and a handwoven rug.

Day 4 was all about Lake Skadar—one of Europe’s largest freshwater lakes (392 km²), shared with Montenegro. It’s a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and home to over 280 bird species, including the rare Dalmatian pelican.

We booked a private 3-hour boat tour ($60 for up to 6 people) with a local fisherman named Gani. We glided through reed beds, passed floating monasteries, and spotted herons, cormorants, and wild horses grazing on the banks. The kids loved feeding bread to the fish and spotting turtles.

Driving tip: The roads around the lake are narrow and sometimes unpaved. Go slow—sheep, cows, and tractors don’t follow traffic rules. We saw at least 5 herds blocking the road!

Weather: 20–24°C, light breeze
Distance covered: 130 km
Must-try meal: Grilled carp with garlic yogurt at Restorant Gani on the lake
Family highlight: Spotting a pelican up close and learning how the lake changes size with the seasons

Day 5–7: The Big Challenge – From Shkodër to Theth in the Albanian Alps

This was the leg I’d been dreading—and the one that became our most unforgettable experience.

Distance: 150 km
Planned time: 2.5 hours
Actual time: 4 hours 45 minutes
Terrain: 80% gravel, 20% dirt, steep switchbacks, river crossings

We left Shkodër at 7:00 AM, packed with snacks, water, and a full tank (last gas station for 100 km). The Suzuki Vitara 4×4 handled the first 60 km fine, but then the road turned—literally—into a mountain trail.

Thethi Road is legendary for a reason. It’s narrow, rocky, and often just wide enough for one car. On sharp turns, we had to reverse to let oncoming vehicles pass. The drop-offs? Over 100 meters in places. My wife held her breath; the kids screamed with excitement.

But the scenery? Unreal. Snow-capped peaks, green valleys, waterfalls cascading down cliffs. We stopped at Grunas Waterfall, just a 20-minute hike from the road. The kids splashed in the icy pool, and we had a picnic on the rocks.

We reached Theth by 3:45 PM—just before the light faded. Theth is a remote village of 300 people, nestled in a high mountain valley at 950m elevation. No streetlights, no traffic, just silence and stars.

We stayed at “Theth Guesthouse”, a family-run stone house with wooden beams and a wood-burning stove. $40/night, including breakfast of fresh bread, goat cheese, and honey from their own bees.

Activities in Theth:

Hike the Blue Eye of Theth (1.5 hours round trip)
Visit the Church of Theth, a 19th-century stone church
Help the family milk goats and bake byrek (cheese pie) in a clay oven
Walk the Abandoned Village Trail—spooky and beautiful

Weather: Days 18–20°C, nights dropped to 5°C—we used all our layers
Driving tip: Never attempt this road at night. Poor lighting, blind curves, and loose rocks make it dangerous after dark.

Family highlight: Crossing a shallow river in the rental car—our 10-year-old still talks about it like we drove through a movie scene.

Day 8–10: Theth to Kotor, Montenegro – From Peaks to the Adriatic

Leaving Theth felt bittersweet. The mountains had stolen our hearts.

Distance: 180 km
Driving time: 5 hours
Border crossing: Morinë (Albania) → Kroimire (Montenegro)

The border was smooth—10 minutes to exit Albania, 15 to enter Montenegro. No passport stamps (Albania stopped in 2023), just a quick ID check. The officer smiled and said, “Enjoy the coast!”

Montenegro’s roads are better paved and less crowded. We drove along the Montenegrin side of Lake Skadar, stopping at Rijeka Crnojevića, a tiny 15th-century town with stone houses and a historic bridge. The kids explored the old fortress while we sipped kafs (Turkish coffee).

We stayed in Perast, a peaceful village on the Bay of Kotor, at “Villa Perast” ($85/night). It had a small garden and sea views. Kotor’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but parking is tight, so we left the car in a secure lot ($10/day) and walked.

Must-dos in Kotor:

Climb the 1,350 steps to San Giovanni Fortress—yes, our kids did it! Took 45 minutes, but the view over the bay was worth every gasp.
Take a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks, a man-made island with a 17th-century church. $15 round-trip for a family of 4.
Wander Kotor’s maze-like alleys, spot the famous Kotor cats, and try pršut (air-dried ham) at a family-run tavern.

Weather: 24–28°C, sunny and humid
Distance covered: 180 km
Must-try meal: Grilled squid and Montenegrin wine at Konoba Catovica Mlini
Family highlight: The boat ride and finding a “lucky cat” statue in the old town

Day 11–12: Return to Tirana via Elbasan – A Cultural Detour

Instead of backtracking, we took the southern route through Elbasan and Maliq, covering 210 km over two days.

Elbasan Castle, built by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century, was a hit with the kids. They loved exploring the stone walls and pretending to be Roman soldiers.

We also visited Divjaka-Karavasta National Park, home to the Dalmatian pelican—only 200 left in the wild. We joined a guided birdwatching tour ($25/family) and saw over 50 pelicans nesting in the reeds.

On our final night, we stayed in Lushnjë, a quiet town, at a small guesthouse. The temperature had cooled to 18°C, and we ate dinner under a grapevine, reflecting on two weeks of mountains, lakes, and unexpected kindness.

Total trip distance: 720 km
Total driving days: 6
Average daily drive: 60–90 km
Coldest night: 5°C in Theth
Hottest day: 31°C in Kotor

What We Learned: Pain Points & Solutions

Fuel stations – Not every village has one. Fill up whenever you see a station. Diesel is cheaper than petrol. Average cost: $1.50/L.

Tolls – Albania has no highway tolls for cars. Montenegro has minimal tolls (under $5 total for us).

Parking – In cities, use official lots. In villages, park anywhere (it’s safe). Never leave valuables visible.

Night driving – Avoid it. Rural roads have no lighting, and animals cross frequently.

Road signs – Mostly clear, but some mountain routes have faded or missing signs. Always use offline maps.

Police checks – Rare, but they happen. Keep your license, passport, rental papers, and IDP (if needed) handy.

Emergency?

Albania: 129 (traffic police), 127 (ambulance)
Montenegro: 112 (universal emergency)
Rental company helpline: Final Rentals provided a 24/7 number—we never needed it, but it was reassuring.

Best Time for the Balkans Road Trip

We went in late April.

Pros:

Fewer tourists
Lower prices (rentals 25% cheaper than summer)
Wildflowers in full bloom
Snow still on peaks (great for photos)

Cons:

Some mountain trails are still closed
Cooler nights (down to 5°C)

Best months: May, June, September. July and August are hot (up to 38°C) and crowded.

Traveling with Kids: What Worked

Snacks, snacks, snacks – Local yogurt, fruit, and baklava kept them happy.
Audio stories – We downloaded Albanian and Montenegrin folk tales.
Stop every 60–90 mins – Stretch legs, take photos, explore.
Involve them – Let them pick the next stop on the map.

They loved:

Feeding sheep in Theth
Boat rides on Lake Skadar
Climbing castle walls
Trying “flija” (layered pancake with cheese)

Recommended Vehicles for the Balkans

For families or mountain travel, avoid small hatchbacks.

Best options:

Compact SUVs (e.g., Suzuki Vitara, Dacia Duster) – Great balance of size, power, and fuel economy
4x4s (e.g., Toyota RAV4, Jeep Renegade) – Ideal for rough terrain
Minivans – If you have 5+ people or lots of gear

Avoid: low-clearance sedans or convertibles—gravel and potholes are common.

That’s Wrap-Up: Route Summary (Tirana Airport → Theth → Kotor → Tirana)

Total distance: ~720 km
Driving days: 6 (avg. 2–5 hrs/day)
Overnight stops: Tirana, Shkodër, Theth, Kotor, Elbasan
Best scenic stops: Grunas Waterfall, Lake Koman ferry (take it!), Rijeka Crnojevića, San Giovanni Fortress
Best meal: Grilled trout in Theth, seafood in Perast
Memorable moment: Watching the kids run through a meadow of wild tulips at 1,200m altitude

This wasn’t just a vacation. It was a family story we’ll tell for years. And it all started with a convenient car rental in Albania at Tirana Airport.